Fresh mussels steamed in a tomato and tarragon broth – a heavenly rich dish dotted with little explosions of sweet tarragon and sharp capers.
Sometimes the best recipes come from an empty cupboard – and this is such a recipe. I’d been planning to make the traditional moules marinieres with white wine and shallots, however I then remembered we’d drunk the white wine the night before. Ho hum. But what I did have was tomatoes, shallots and a bottle of tarragon vinegar demanding to be used…
All quantities are per person for a main course sized serving.
20-30 mussels, cleaned and debearded
A knob of unsalted butter (about 15g)
1 small shallot, finely chopped
Half a tin of tomatoes, chopped
1 sprig of lemon thyme
1 bay leaf
Bunch of chopped parsley
2 tbsp tarragon vinegar*
6 capers, roughly chopped
Salt and Pepper to taste
Olive oil for dressing
1. Rinse off the mussels and discard any that don’t close when tapped.
2. Heat the butter on a medium heat, then add the shallots and cook until they turn clear.
3. Add tomatoes, thyme, bay leaf, chopped parsley and seasoning (not too much salt though as the liquid in the mussels will be fairly salty), turn up the heat. When mixture is bubbling fiercely, add the mussels and place a lid on the pan.
4. Shake the pan occasionally, then after a couple of minutes take off the lid and douse with tarragon vinegar. Put the lid back on and cook for 2 more minutes, still shaking occasionally.
5. Remove the lid, and pour the mussels and liquid into a serving bowl, discarding the thyme and bay leaf. Scatter over the chopped capers, and dress with olive oil (about 1 tbsp).
This is a simple, rewarding dish that can be made in a few minutes with little fuss. The tarragon vinegar sneaks inside some of the mussels so that you get occasional sweet bursts, combining well with the odd smidgen of sharp capers and the rich tomato sauce. Obviously it would be a crime not to dip big chunks of crusty bread in the sauce. People say not to eat the mussels that are still partly closed, but I always crowbar them open and I’m still living to this day.
In the picture above I included whole capers, but found it a little too intense (and they all slid away into the sauce), hence the recommendation to chop them. Also, chuck a little bit of white wine in there if you like, why not, assuming you haven’t drunk it already…
*tarragon vinegar is pretty easy to make – stick a few sprigs of fresh tarragon into a bottle of white wine vinegar, wait a few weeks, voila – tarragon vinegar.